TEMPO.CO, Jakarta - It is not hard to find a diner in Makassar that serves coto in its menu. Legend has it that the dish exists since the 1940s and it is a must try dish for travelers visiting the region. RM Coto Ranggong, established since the 1960s, is one of the famous restaurants that has the legendary menu.
At the diner owned by Pieter Tansil (80), the coto he serves is cooked in a clay pot. According to his son, Anthon (46), the cooking method contributes to its tastiness. “It affects the taste,” he said.
Their version of coto Makassar contains of beef, cow's liver, lungs, cheek, heart, and tongue as the main composition with lemongrass, shallot, onion, coriander, cumin, salt, bay leaf, lime, and peanut as the spices. "The beef is directly brought from the local slaughter house."
The Coto Ranggong diner is located at Jalan Ranggong, about 200 meters from Losari Beach and opens at 08.00 AM. One portion of coto is sold at Rp25,000. The restaurant provides a variety of dishes but coto has always been its most defining dish.
“Our customers come from ordinary people until state officials. Pak SBY had even visited this place during his first term as President,” Anthon said.
Wendy (26), one of the customers, says that the venue also compliments the dish. “It feels as if [I’m] back in time since it’s an old building,” he said.
Wendy, who’s originally from Gowa District, admits that he frequently visits Coto Ranggong even though he has to travel a long distance to get there. “The coto is different from the others. It tastes fresh and you can really taste the spices,” he said.
Other places to enjoy coto Makassar is at RM Coto Daeng, located at Jalan Pengayoman, located exactly behind Mall Panakkukang. The difference is, in this place, the coto is cooked in a large aluminum crock over a modern stove.
Even though it is cooked in a more modern way, the spices used are the one typically used by the majority of coto diners. “It doesn’t taste that different compared to the ones cooked in a clay pot. But the gravy is distinguishable,” says Sartina, an employee of RM Coto Daeng.
Other than coto, travelers can also try out other Makassar culinary gems, such as the distinct Palopo dish like kapurung. Kapurung is made of sago. It can be found at Jalan Mappanyukki nearby Mattoangin Stadium.
DIDIT HARYADI